Basic Tutorials:
1.0: Bleaching...Basic instruction and tips on bleaching.
2.0: Coloring...A tutorial on color, including the different types of dye, and tips.
The products reviewed on this page are:
3.0: Bleach...A guide to the many bleaches on the market, with reviews and reccommendations.
3.1: Redken's Blonde Dimensions
3.2: Clairol's Born Blonde
3.3: Effasol by Loreal
3.4: Jerome Russell
3.5: Manic Panic
4.0: Hair Color...A guide to the various brands of hair color, with reviews.
4.1: Clairol's Products-Nice n' Easy, Hydrience, etc.
4.2: Directions by La Riche
4.3: Framesi
4.4: Fudge
4.5: Manic Panic
4.6: Prisms by Matrix
4.7: Punky Color
4.8: Special Effects
4.9: Stargazer
4.10: Loreal Products-Feria, Recital les Noirs Richesse, etc.
4.11: Laboratoires Garnier-Movida, Natea, etc.
4.12: Redken-Shades EQ
5.0: Application Tips
6.0: Maintenance Tips
7.0: Places to buy good hair products
8.0: GALLERY of Hair Pics
1.0: BLEACHING
If you're even *thinking* about coloring your hair a vibrant, unusual color (purple, red, blue, whatever), chances are you will have to bleach it. While this may not be true for those with naturally pale blonde hair, everyone else will HAVE to bleach. Even those with light hair can benefit from bleaching, as it makes hair more porous, thus allowing more color to penetrate the hair shaft. Bleaching WILL damage your hair. No ifs, ands, or buts about it. Bleach is comprised of peroxides, ammonias, and lightening agents that work by stripping the hair follicle, thereby damaging it. There are many different factors that contribute to the amount of damage your hair will undergo; firstly, the strength of bleach you use, otherwise known as the volume. 10 is lowest in strength, then 20, 30, and 40 is generally thought to be the strongest level for normal processing. However, there are stronger levels...I have a friend hair stylist that once used 120 vol.!! (Though I myself have never actually seen anything higher than 40). I personally use 40 volume because it takes less time and I have naturally black hair (black, not dark brown). For medium brown to blonde hair, 30 or possibly 20 should deliver nice results.
When bleaching, start on dry, clean (but not freshly washed), hair. After applying the bleach, I usually cover my head with a cap or plastic bag. Keeping your head covered will seal in the heat from your head, which makes the bleach process faster. If all you're seeking to do is bleach your hair, you can now add a toner of your choice, which "tones" out the brassiness of bleached hair, or you can not use a toner and proceed to the conditioning stage.
Conditioner is a MUST when you bleach your hair, because it'll feel like straw. I like Joico's K Pak, which is a deep conditioner. I condition my hair right after bleaching. I usually slather on Joico's K-Pak, cover my head with a hot towel, and let it soak in for a couple hours. Then I rinse VERY thoroughly, because you want to make sure all product is out of your head before applying dye, otherwise it may affect how well the dye takes. I then wait atleast 24 hours before applying hair dye.
**TIP from laci: If you have sensitive skin be careful with bleach. Do not apply on freshly washed hair. You will receive chemical burns which can be quite nasty.
Back to Top
2.0: COLORING
First off, let's review the different types of hair color. There's temporary, permanent, and semi-permanent.
Temporary is one type that will not be covered on this site. It's basically those colors that are intended to last for one use, like the colored sprays, or colored pomades, or ones that wash out within a couple washes on purpose. Temporary dyes are usually used for occasions when you want a different color for a day or so, like Halloween, etc.
Permanent color is intended to be, well, permanent. It has more pigment and lightening agent, peroxide and/or ammonia to attach the color to hair so that it will stay. Permanent hair color does, however, fade on occasion, and should be conditioned just like any other chemically processed hair.
Semi-permanent hair colors are intended to last for up to a few months, although most will fade after 4-8 weeks, depending on the brand. Semi-permanent hair color is the focus of this coloring section, as most of the beautiful, unusual colors are in semi-permanent form. There are two levels of semi-permanent color: "drugstore" brands (as I call them) and "professional" brands.
Drugstore brands are usually vegetable dyes and have NO lightening agents, peroxide, or ammonia. With these colors you will need to bleach before coloring or the color will not take. Examples of this kind of color are Manic Panic, Fudge, and Special Effects. When using these colors, I get the best results with color when I color over hair that has been bleached to platinum blonde. Also, after I've got my hair bleached, I usually wait a day to apply color to it. I shampoo thoroughly to get out all the gunk left from the bleach, because the residue will prohibit color from attaching to the hair. I've also found that color stays better when applied to dry hair. These colors will fade out in anywhere from 2-8 weeks, depending on a variety of factors like how porous your hair is, length of processing time, etc. They WILL fade out. ALL of them. Live with it and do a touch-up.
Professional brands of semi-permanent color, such as Framesi and Redken, contain a small amount of lightening agents, peroxides, and ammonias which means you don't need to bleach quite as much or at all. In a sense, they bleach and dye your hair all at once. Bear in mind, however, that although professional brands will lift your hair a little, they will not work if you are seeking dramatic results. (Such as if you want to go from black to platinum blonde). In such cases, you will still need to do some pre-color bleaching. Professional brands can also eventually fade out, though they usually last anywhere between 6-12 weeks before needing a touch-up. It varies with the brand.
Back to Top
3.0: PRODUCT REVIEWS: BLEACH
A good bleach is vital for gorgeous hair. My hair is naturally black, and therefore requires a really good bleach to get it platinum blonde. After numerous years of searching and testing, I have found my ideal bleach. (Redken's Blonde Dimensions) But in the course of those many years, I've tried a bunch, some of which turn out pretty well, some of which do not. Below are some products that I've tried...
3.1: REDKEN...Blonde Dimensions is one of Redken's bleaches, and is specifically buffered to be safe for on-scalp as well as off scalp-use. If you've ever bleached your hair, you know that putting bleach directly on your scalp can cause a lot of burning pain as well as yucky peeling of the scalp. Redken's alkali-buffered formula provides a bit of a shield for your scalp, while still giving excellent results. To use it, mix equal parts of the powder bleach (Blonde Dimensions) with Redken's Pro-Oxide Emulsified Developer. I use 40 vol. Blonde Dimensions is my favorite bleach! It works quickly and delivers superb results. I LOVE Redken's Blonde Dimensions!! It is a fabulous bleach and I'll use nothing else as far as bleach from now on. This bleach can ONLY be found in profession beauty supply stores, the majority of which sell only to licensed beauticians. Try and ask your stylist to get a hold of some Blonde Dimensions if you can.
Redken also has another hair lightener that comes in a white tub with pink lettering (Shades I think it's called). The exact name of it escapes me, but I would reccommend against using it if you have hair darker than a light brown. I've used it and it doesn't work well on dark hair.
3.2: CLAIROL...Born Blonde is an okay bleach, although it took a while longer than I'm used to (about 40 mins) and smelled nauseating. As for the actual color result, it was pretty decent. Not as pale as I've had, but still pale enough to be platinum. There were a couple spots that didn't get past a golden blonde stage though. Oh, and the stuff burns something fierce. It was by far the most painful bleaching I've had, which is saying a lot right there. The mixing instructions call for 1-3 packets of Lightening Activators, 2 oz. of Born Blonde Lightener, and 4 oz. of developer. The instructions say to use 20 vol., but that's for sissies. =) So I used 40 vol. Now, the other icky thing about the stuff is that it bears an uncanny resemblance to lard. After mixing, it's yellow and...lardy. Just thought that info might be of service....
3.3: EFFASOL by LOREAL